Kalyra

When we first saw this aerial shot of Sliema we thought, cool shot of the harbor. Then we looked closer – see all the oil in the water? Someone in the Manoel Yacht Yard accidentally punctured an oil drum which leaked into the water. They managed to clean up the water pretty well in 24 hours, but it was a messy 24 hours hours with boats and dinghy hulls to clean ourselves, as well as the disgusting mess on the dinghy lines…….

Birgu is one of the Three Cities of Malta, across Grand Harbor from Valetta. It’s a bit of a pain to get to (dinghy, ferry, bus), but includes a ride on a traditional wooden dghasjsa, the Maltese water taxi.

It’s also home to one of the fancier marinas, and it’s home to the Maltese Falcon, a prototype to the Black Pearl who we shared a marina with last winter. But fancy as the waterfront is, wandering through the back streets of the village is charming. Every corner you turn has another beautiful little alley way.

The first time we visited, the local rowing club was celebrating having won the annual Victory Day Regatta for the first time in 42 years!

Marsaxlokk is a small fishing village at the southern end of Malta. We had originally planned on anchoring outside the village to ride out the winds before we got the mooring, so we opted to take the bus instead.

The village has a ‘shabby chic’ look due to the decaying limestone buildings at the waterfront.

Sunday is market day, when the fishermen bring their catch in and sell directly to the public. However, that means getting to town early in the morning, which we weren’t likely to do, so we opted for a weekday when things would be a bit less crowded. It’s still a charming place, just quieter. The boats (called luzzu) are brightly painted and have eyes painted on the prow to ward off bad weather.

Malta, but especially the city of Valletta, looks like it has been carved out of limestone (which makes up most of the island). Drab to the eye at the initial viewing, it’s fascinating as you look closer. The architecture is mostly baroque (based on building styles since the most recent earthquake which destroyed others) with little pops of color here and there. Under attack again and again through the centuries, everywhere you look you see fortresses.

From Sliema, it’s a ferry ride, followed by a bus (or a steep walk), followed by a lift up to the Baraka Gardens. From here you can watch the cannons fired daily at noon across the Grand Harbor.

The walk down past the city gates, takes you to the Trident fountain. Look closely, I’m pretty sure alien life has been found on Earth based on these sculptures.

Walking through town brings you passed church after church, the occasional palazzo, and many an official office building. Interspersed with that you’ll see the local touch.

Valletta is as much fun at night when everything lights up, as it is during the day.

Museums during the day turn into bistros at night.

Everything glows.

The Arab influence on the architecture comes alive (the Maltese balconies were inspired by the Arab mashrabiya).

You wouldn’t guess it’s already past the autumn solstice with the crowds still gathering!

Just after we arrived, a fellow cruiser reached out to Trip to see if we wanted a mooring in Sliema Bay. Yes, please! These moorings are privately owned, and fashioned in a way that has no rhyme or reason. You tie bow and stern on so that everyone is pointed in the same direction in a small space in the harbor. I rather think we look like a page out of Make Way For The Ducklings. Two fronts with potentially high winds were forecast, so we were happy to have access to one of the moorings. We added extra lines to secure ourselves.

Little did we know that we were surrounded by a dozen boats that are also headed to Monastir. We’ve never had the chance to meet so many ‘winter’ friends in advance, and it’s quite the social crowd.

Sliema is not the prettiest part of the island, but it does have a nice view at night of Valetta, the capital.

More importantly, everything you need for the boat is in Sliema. Well stocked supermarkets or laundry are a five minute walk from the dinghy dock. Ferry boats and buses are right there. Petrol and water for the boat down at the other end of the bay.

Chandleries are close and because we went with our local friends they broke out the secret beer fridge….

The weather turned out to be windy, but we were really protected in the bay, so it was inconvenient and nothing more. We checked our lines at one point though and were happy that we had two…… (we completely chafed through a line in the Caribbean and are always careful to check now during a blow)

It was time to leave Greece, but apparently Greece didn’t want to say goodbye. We were grateful that Greece has a bilateral visa agreement with the US that allowed us an extra 90 days beyond our Schengen 90 days. Apparently we had to pay for that good luck with the bad luck of trying to leave the country. Clearing out became a comedy of errors which took us a few days. Between the post office (trying to pay for an additional month of the tepai (cruising tax)), the port police (who said yes no matter how many different ways Trip asked a question), the immigration office (we visited three days in a row before we finally got our passports stamped), it could have been a new Monty Python movie. It’s really a good thing we were not in a hurry.

Of course in the meantime the forecast seemed to change every 12 hours and what looked like a good window (we needed 3 1/2 days) would suddenly not be a good window. I became wary of the CAPE index which indicates stability of the air, which is notoriously poor at this time of the season leading to numerous thunderstorms. We opted to activate our expensive Iridium GO satellite connection along with the offshore version of PredictWind, knowing that we could use it for this passage as well as the one to Tunisia before we cancelled the service again.

It was a good passage overall. We didn’t remotely manage to stay in a straight line, because the winds were constantly ahead of the beam, and we did a lot of hand steering to point as far into the wind as possible.

The forecast changed regularly and conditions we saw weren’t always following the predictions. At one point we were pretty discouraged, as the boat would regularly drop to 2 knots when we were motoring in messy seas with little wind. Would we have enough fuel to make it? This seemed like a no-brainer when we left. Suddenly we were caught between two approaching fronts with no time to put a reef in the main, much less put on our foul weather gear. Luckily, there was no rain, and instead the boat took off with the wind. Trip managed the helm while I played the main. Instead of petering out like most squalls do, this one dragged us along which we were happy to do. Eventually we managed to get the sail reefed (shortened), and I was happy to hand steer a well-balanced boat through the night doing well over 7 knots at times. There is nothing better than sailing by hand at night when things are comfortable. It’s magical to use the feel of the boat instead of your eyes).

We actually had to slow ourselves down as we approached Malta, as we did not want to come into an unfamiliar anchorage at night.

We dropped the anchor in St. Julians Bay at dawn, slept for a couple of hours, then went ashore to clear in and explore. Welcome to Malta!

Safely back in Argostoli, we could wait for the right weather window to leave for Malta. It’s 320 nautical miles as the crow flies, but with the winds forecasted, we would need to head southwest first (riding northwest winds), and then northwest when we reached the southwesterly winds. And we would be dodging potential weather as we went. Probably a 3 to 4 day passage.

Along with reasonable winds, we were also looking to avoid storms. We wound up waiting in Argostoli a whole week trying to find the right window. Daily bursts of lightning storms moved through in that period, making us happy we had stayed put. We spent hours looking at the weather apps, and chatting with others who were looking to make the same passage. We ate gelato and sipped cocktails to cope with waiting……

After a day or so of enjoying our last bit of time in Spartia, swimming in crystal clear waters, having a watermelon mojito, and dining again at our favorite restaurant, we rounded the bend to Argostoli to make final preparations for our longest sail of the season to Malta. As both forecasts and the weather itself changes frequently this time of year, we wound up spending well over a week waiting for our weather window. We didn’t exactly suffer while waiting.

The end of August still brings festivals to Greece, and we happened to be in town one night when a local dance and music troupe came through. I confess I can’t remember which saint they were honoring, but it was wonderful to watch them parade through the streets and stop to perform.

We were still running into friends from Porto Montenegro even at the end of the season. Tim and Heidi on Calaine came through on their way south, and Holger and Karin of s/v RiverCafe were in town for appointments in between their busy season on the boat.

We watched the weather every day and waited. And waited. We connected with another OCC boat, s/v Waya Waya, and tentatively made plans to cross at the same time (us from Argostoli, them from Pylos). There were several days of pretty violent thunderstorms each night which made us glad we were still waiting.

Always looking for something to do, Trip went on a modern day archeological dig, and turned up…….a mountain bike. It had fallen into the water, most likely knocked over by strong winds one night during the storms. Today’s good deed.

Days later and we were done with water, fuel and provisioning, and had kind of exhausted exploring Argostoli. So we rented a car and went off to explore for a day. Our first stop was the Cyclopean walls of ancient Krani

Each block in the wall is so massive, it was thought that only a giant (ie. the Cyclops) would be capable of building such a thing. There’s over 2 kilometers of these walls, and it’s estimated that they date back to the 7th century BC, protecting the city of Krani that was the center of southern Kefalonia. There’s not much left of the town itself, but you can wander the walls and admire the ability to build such a thing.

After Krani, we drove to the other side of the island to Sami. On our way into town, we stopped at the Nautical Museum of Sami. Sotiris Marketos has been building ship models for decades, and has built himself a museum to show the different types of boats that have sailed the waters of Greece from ancient to modern times.

Each model takes him anywhere from 6 to 18 months to build. He takes great pride in each model, and we were lucky to have him as a personal tour guide.

After the museum tour, we drove through Sami and up into the hills, where we stopped at the Agrillia Monastary. The views of the water between Kefalonia and Ithaca were beautiful – you could picture scenes from the Odyssey playing out easily.

Lunch by the water was lovely as usual, and then we walked back into town to visit the Archeological Collection of Sami. The town has been continuously inhabited since the early Bronze Age (2600 BC) and they have artifacts from each period to illustrate it. Of course I loved seeing yet another bathtub, even if it wasn’t as well preserved as the one in Pylos.

The decorative pieces at the museum particularly caught our eye. Despite the earthquakes that had rocked the island, mosaics were still pretty much intact, and in a lot of cases shattered pieces were able to be reconstructed.

Despite everything we had already seen that day, we pressed on to take advantage of the car at our disposal. We drove down to see the Saint Gerasimos Monastery. The grounds are lovely, the church is massive, and we were lucky enough to arrive when the original church was opening again to view the reliquary (holds the remains of the saint himself).

We then traced our way back up the hills to a spot that a shopkeeper had told us not to miss. Valsamata is one of the many villages that was evacuated after the earthquake in the 1950’s.

You can see how well made these buildings were, but you can also see how quickly nature moves to reclaim the space once abandoned.

No one else was there at the time and we had the entire place to ourselves, looking through ruins and imagining what once might have been.

We still had a little bit of time left before returning the car, so we drove back toward Argostoli, but kept to the sea side. We stopped at Gradaki Beach, snagged a couple of chairs, and enjoyed the sunset with a couple of drinks and hot dogs for dinner. A perfect way to end a full day.

Just when you’ve gotten used to the steady winds and incessant heat of the Med, the end of summer is upon you. Rather like summer for us on the east coast of the US who would start bracing for hurricanes, the Med gets weird this time of year.

The heat of the water (unprecedented temperatures this year) combined with the fronts blowing through can create some seriously dangerous storms. We had two days of southerly winds and decided to run north to Argostoli. Those days would also bring very unsettled weather. The run from Methoni back to Katakolon was quite good. Our only excitement was watching a neighboring catamaran blow his spinnaker as they weren’t paying attention to the growing winds (we simply left our main and jib up, reefing when needed). But the morning we were to leave Katakolon, the weather looked messy. I thought the front was going to pass us, so we decided to leave the anchorage and motor. Unfortunately the storm changed track and headed for us. That, combined with the white caps we could see in the distance, and the wobbly lightning rod at the top of our mast had us turn around in a hurry. Once back at anchor, we waited for the front to pass, Trip went up the mast to address the lightning rod as well as a wind transducer problem, and then we were off again.

We were conscious of lots of storms in the area, but the worst of the lightning was past us (little did we know there had been a water spout in our path the day before). We were hard on it, close hauled, and reefed for most of the day, but we made it safely to southern Kefalonia in the wee hours of the morning after a good soaking by a rain squall.

Another day, another Greek fortress, or so it seems. We had reached Methoni, our final new destination in Greece. It’s been a great summer, but we need to head off to Malta soon, and the prevailing winds from the west/northwest make leaving from further north a better option. Plus, we need to get our passports stamped out, and we know Argostoli can do it, we’re not sure about other locations in the Peloponnese.

Methoni looks like one giant fortress with a little village appended to it as you sail in. You anchor in the bay right under the fortress, it’s absolutely gorgeous. This was one of the staging posts for the route of commercial shipping, along with pilgrims heading off to the Holy Land.

There’s not much to town, it truly is a place where locals come to holiday. The restaurants were your basic Greek tavernas, but the weekend crowd was infectious and we found ourselves hanging out at a couple of different bars, enjoying the local scene.

The fortress is simply massive. Occupying nearly 10 hectares, the site was fully developed under Venetian rule, and of course later occupied by the Ottomans.

When you enter the site, you cross over a bridge supported by fourteen arches. You then come into what was once the enclosed village. Unfortunately many buildings inside the settlement were destroyed by the French in the 1800’s, when they built a village outside of the fortress, but couldn’t get anyone to move.

At the southern end stands the Sea Gate, which opens up to a stone bridge (no railings!) that leads to the Bourtzi, an isolated small fortress, where the locals were slaughtered by the Turks in 1500.