Will this never end? Another day of winds much higher than forecasted, again in the 20’s, gusting into the 30’s. Now the seas were up to 6-8 feet, though they were at least more stable, if big (and breaking periodically). We scratched the plan of going to Palermo after reading about the fires, the haze, the water problems and power outages. Palermo is a big dirty city and this did not seem to be the way to experience it. Instead we headed for Cefalu.
Cefalu is a gorgeous little seaside town. The only downside is that the swell AGAIN wrapped around and made it’s way into the anchorage. Getting the dinghy down and the motor on involved a lot of cursing.
But town is absolutely stunning, especially in the late afternoon early evening sun. We stretched our legs and wandered through the cobblestone streets. We watched the surf crash on the breakwater and realized we had a lot of protection despite the swell (such is life on a boat).
We managed to get the last table at the restaurant La Brace where I was horrified to hear that they didn’t have their famous rabbit and chestnuts (provisioners supply chains disrupted by the fires). But we each had a steak that qualified as some of the best we’ve tasted this year. We finished up with a walk through the square where we watched an amazing and funny street performer juggler who was entertaining everyone as well as families with children, and then we closed up the evening with a cannoli and espresso.
We decided to stay another day as swell died down in the harbor and the anchorage got more comfortable. We got our SIM card topped off (it’s still hard to believe €25 gets you unlimited data for an entire month). Trip really wanted a granita in the heat, so we headed back to the main piazza. We toured the Cathedral of Cefalu, a UNESCO world heritage site featured as one of the only churches that encompassed Arab, Norman, and Roman building techniques. The stained glass windows, the most unusual I’ve ever seen in a Catholic Church (and controversial given the abstract nature) are beautiful.
And what would a church in Italy be in summer without a wedding? While we sat in the piazza eating granita, we watched yet another wedding party emerge from the church in all their finery.
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