Month: July 2024 (Page 2 of 2)

We waited out the high winds of Wednesday and sailed down to Preveza on Thursday in a still sporty breeze, with both the main and genoa reefed. We managed to sail right into the harbor, and had a scary moment after dropping sails, when the engine wouldn’t engage in forward gear. I was about to roll out the jib again (we were starting to drift uncomfortably close to a rather large and expensive yacht), when Trip got the engine in gear and we were able to anchor safely.

Then the anchoring excitement started for the others around us. We watched one couple anchor five different times and drag each time, no matter where they were. It didn’t help that the water isn’t clear (you can’t see your anchor) and it was blowing over 20 knots. But the real excitement was watching another boat not only drag, but pick up another boat’s anchor and chain! Luckily the dragging victim rowed (rowed!) forward and got a line around the fouled anchor and chain so that they could release it. Another cruiser came by and held the dragging victim’s boat in place so that it wouldn’t start moving across the anchorage. I was really impressed at the lack of shouting and overall civility between everyone. I was particularly happy that the dragging boat did not anchor in front of us.

Preveza doesn’t look like much from the anchorage, but it’s a charming town and a fabulous place for a cruiser with all the laundry, chandleries, and shops for provisioning. While Trip went to get our transit log for the boat stamped by the local authorities, I took two massive bags of laundry down the quay to have them done. There’s no self-service laundry facilities in town, but those two huge bags only cost 20 euro and were washed, dried and folded in less than 3 hours. Time for me to peek around and get new sunscreen supplies against the brutal Greek sun.

We knew from a group chat that fellow cruisers from our winter berth in Montenegro were in town, and we managed to catch up with Eric & Vandy on their s/v Awildian, together with Heath & Pookie from s/v Sawasdeekat.

Pookie was kind enough to leave me a bag of Thai goodies: galangal, chiles, and kefir lime leaves. I made a simple syrup out of the lime leaves & galangal with local cherries, and then added lemon, seltzer water, and a splash of gin. Just the thirst quencher needed for these hot days!

We had come to Preveza at just the right time as the local choir was hosting the 42nd Annual International Choral Festival. Every night when we came ashore for dinner we would stop and enjoy one of the many performing groups in the town square.

It was to be a musical few days, as we also had music with dinner one night. We had seen posters for the Makari Trio performing at Villa Ferrari. A few blocks off the main drag, the restaurant had a beautiful courtyard half covered by bougainvillea. Dinner was good, but the musical trio was spectacular. A group from Sicily and Naples, they travel during the summer playing Greek/Italian/Syrian music. All the music was wonderful, but our two favorites were Misirlou (covered famously and used in Pulp Fiction) and Tu Vuo Fa L’Americano (so you want to be American?).

We were debating when to leave, and Trip had gone over to the fuel dock to fill up the jerry cans, when he called me to tell me that m/v Sally Forth (more friends from Montenegro) were in town. Mark and Sally were in the marina for the night, and were kind enough to invite us over for cocktails to catch up. Small world!

I’ve done it across the Mediterranean, why stop now?

Sailing through a new country can be challenging. Picking places to visit that look interesting and are safe for the boat. Apps like Navily and NoForeignLand can help, but they can also be overwhelming with too many options and questionable reviews. We’re lucky to count among our friends sailors who have already visited Greece and have trustworthy recommendations. Karin and Holger on s/v RiverCafe gave us the heads up on this spot.

We needed an anchorage part way to Preveza that would have protection from westerly and northwesterly winds that were forecasted. Two Rock Bay checked both of those requirements. We sailed a little bit, but the wind wound up dying, so we motored in. The bay did not disappoint. It’s a good size, with lots of big sand patches for good holding, and room for 20 or so boats. The water teems with friendly fish (some of whom immediately starting chomping away at the marine undergrowth on our hull). We decided to stay a few days.

One of the best parts of this bay is the small bar at the top of the steps leading up from the beach. Inexpensive cocktails, tasty hot dogs and hamburgers as well as fresh Greek salad, and cool old blues and rock & roll tunes. You sit perched over the bay, staring at the anchored boats as the sun goes down. If you’re lucky (and we were), you get a visit from the resident fox.

‘I think the world would be a better place if we all let out a little bit more chain.’ My new favorite quote from friends Mark and Susanne on s/v Lady Lea, a beautiful little Vindo sailboat. We decided to up anchor and move as we were swinging too close to a neighboring boat (aggravatingly, they left a couple of hours later and we probably could have stayed). As we re-positioned ourselves, a new neighbor called out and shooed us away from her fancy Hanse. In anchoring, we swung a little too close to the Vindo, and Trip offered to move. Instead Mark came up to his bow, let out some more chain (putting more distance between us), and called out ‘no problem’. Over drinks in their cockpit later that day, as we talked about the state of the world and the anger and war, Mark made that comment about the chain, which I really appreciated. If you’re someone that has some chain to spare, let it out and help someone else. None of us really want to argue or fight.