Back in November, we began daily chats with Peja, one of the guards at the marina. I had expressed interest in visiting Ostrag Monastary, ranked third in the world in terms of religious pilgrimages. Peja was proud to tell us that the monastery was close to his hometown of Nikšić, and that you didn’t have to be religious to feel the spirituality of the monastery. When we came back last month, he immediately made plans for us to visit with his family.
Early Saturday morning we met Peja at the gate and headed off into the mountains toward Nikšić. Our first stop was Lake Krupac. At 600 meters above sea level, surrounded by mountains, the lake is popular with both locals and tourists. We strolled the causeway and Peja told us of all the memories he had visiting the lake over many decades. As we were walking back, Peja’s wife Milanka and son Nikola joined us. They generously greeted us with flowers and gifts (earrings, home made sausage and raki (apple and quince brandies)!
We headed off to their favorite restaurant for a breakfast of fresh local raspberry juice, fritters with butter and cheese, and a full Montenegrin grilled breakfast of eggs and meat. What was amazing, though, was everyone that came up to greet Peja and Milanka. Having lived in Nikšić their whole lives, they had connections everywhere and were like rockstars.
After breakfast it was a quick stop by Milanka’a shop to see where she and her colleagues cook takeaway seven days a week. If I only had more time I’d be back for lessons in burek (rolled philo pie) and kacamak (potatoes)!
From Lake Krupac we drove up to the Trebjesa Forest Park. High on a hill, we had views of the entire city, the lake, and the mountain ranges. We sat for a coffee and visited with yet more of Peja and Milanka’s friends passing by. Then it was down to visit a local church, and Saturday being Saturday, it was wedding day!
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